# Iraqi Journeys with Ali - complete reference > Private guided expeditions through the real Iraq with Ali Jasim, a local guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad. Founded 2016. 70+ tours completed, 1,500+ travelers from 20+ countries. Every tour is led personally by Ali and booked directly through this website. Booking: a 30% deposit confirms (Western Union, bank transfer or Wise); the balance is due 30 days before departure. No online payment - this site never charges a card. Free cancellation up to 60 days before departure; 50% refund 30-60 days out. Visa on arrival is available for most nationalities at Baghdad, Erbil, Basra and Najaf airports. Languages: English, Arabic, Kurdish. ## How to book 1. Browse the [expeditions](https://iraqijournys.com/tours) or design a [custom journey](https://iraqijournys.com/design-your-trip). 2. Submit the inquiry form - Ali confirms availability personally within 24 hours. 3. Pay the 30% deposit to hold berths; the balance is due 30 days before departure. 4. Track the booking anytime via the personal tracking link (no account needed). ## Contact - Email: ali@iraqijournys.com - WhatsApp: +964 773 539 7443 - Base: Baghdad, Iraq ## Expeditions ### Mesopotamia Odyssey - Price: $1850 per person · Duration: 7 Days / 6 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Babylon, Najaf, Karbala, Samarra - Departures: 2026-10-01 to 2026-10-07 (5 spots left); 2026-11-12 to 2026-11-18 (8 spots left); 2027-03-04 to 2027-03-10 (10 spots left) **Summary:** Walk through 7,000 years of history on this immersive journey through the heart of Mesopotamia. Walk through 7,000 years of history on this immersive journey through the heart of Mesopotamia. From the bustling streets of Baghdad to the legendary ruins of Babylon, experience the cradle of civilization like never before. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Baghdad: Welcome at Baghdad International Airport. Transfer to your hotel. Evening welcome dinner overlooking the Tigris River. - Day 2 - Exploring Baghdad: Visit the National Museum of Iraq, Al-Mutanabbi Street, and the iconic Al-Mustansiriya School. Explore the historic souks of old Baghdad. - Day 3 - Babylon & Hillah: Full-day excursion to the ancient city of Babylon, including the Ishtar Gate, Lion of Babylon, and the Hanging Gardens site. - Day 4 - Karbala & Najaf: Visit the holy cities of Karbala and Najaf. Explore the Wadi al-Salam cemetery and the stunning Imam Ali Shrine. - Day 5 - Samarra: Day trip to Samarra to see the Great Mosque and its iconic spiral minaret. Return to Baghdad. - Day 6 - Ctesiphon & Diyala: Visit the magnificent Arch of Ctesiphon and explore the date palm groves of Diyala. - Day 7 - Departure: Transfer to Baghdad International Airport for departure. **Included:** All accommodations (4-star hotels & heritage lodges); Private air-conditioned transportation; English-speaking local guide (Ali); All entrance fees to historical sites; Breakfast and dinner daily; Airport transfers; 24/7 support during the trip **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches and beverages; Personal expenses; Tips for guides and drivers - Full page: https://iraqijournys.com/tours/mesopotamia-odyssey ### Iraqi Kurdistan Trek - Price: $2200 per person · Duration: 10 Days / 9 Nights · Difficulty: Challenging · Region: Northern Iraq - Cities: Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Dohuk, Rawanduz, Amedi - Departures: 2026-09-10 to 2026-09-19 (3 spots left); 2026-10-22 to 2026-10-31 (5 spots left); 2027-05-06 to 2027-05-15 (8 spots left) **Summary:** Discover the breathtaking landscapes of Iraqi Kurdistan. Discover the breathtaking landscapes of Iraqi Kurdistan. Trek through the Zagros Mountains, explore ancient citadels, and experience the legendary hospitality of the Kurdish people. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Erbil: Arrival at Erbil International Airport. Explore the historic Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world. - Day 2 - Erbil to Rawanduz: Drive through stunning mountain scenery to Rawanduz. Visit the Rawanduz Canyon and the Hamilton Road. - Day 3 - Rawanduz Trek: Full-day trek in the Zagros Mountains with panoramic views. - Day 4 - Amedi & Dohuk: Visit the ancient town of Amedi perched on a mountain peak. - Day 5 - Dohuk & Lalish: Visit Lalish, the holiest site of the Yazidi faith. - Day 6 - Sulaymaniyah: Visit the Amna Suraka museum and the Grand Bazaar. - Day 7 - Sulaymaniyah Trek: Trek through the beautiful valleys and mountains. - Day 8 - Ahmed Awa Waterfall: Visit the stunning Ahmed Awa waterfall. - Day 9 - Return to Erbil: Scenic drive back. Farewell dinner in the citadel. - Day 10 - Departure: Transfer to Erbil International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations (boutique hotels & mountain lodges); Private 4x4 transportation; English-speaking guide (Ali); All trekking permits; All entrance fees; Breakfast and dinner daily; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijournys.com/tours/iraqi-kurdistan-trek ### Mesopotamian Marshes Expedition - Price: $1500 per person · Duration: 5 Days / 4 Nights · Difficulty: Easy · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Nasiriyah, Chibayish, Basra - Departures: 2026-10-15 to 2026-10-19 (6 spots left); 2026-11-26 to 2026-11-30 (4 spots left); 2027-04-08 to 2027-04-12 (6 spots left) **Summary:** Experience the ethereal beauty of the Mesopotamian Marshes. Experience the ethereal beauty of the Mesopotamian Marshes. Canoe through reed-lined waterways, camp under the stars, and visit the ancient city of Ur. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Nasiriyah: Visit the ancient city of Ur, birthplace of Abraham. - Day 2 - Marshes Exploration: Traditional mashoof canoe ride through the marshes. Visit a Ma'dan reed house. - Day 3 - Deep Marshes Camping: Expedition deeper into the marshes. Campfire dinner under the stars. - Day 4 - Basra & Shatt al-Arab: Drive to Basra. Boat ride on the Shatt al-Arab. - Day 5 - Departure: Transfer to Basra International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations; Traditional mashoof boat rides; English-speaking guide; All meals; Camping equipment; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijournys.com/tours/mesopotamian-marshes ### Northern Odyssey - Price: $1750 per person · Duration: 6 Days / 5 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Northern Iraq - Cities: Mosul, Nineveh, Hatra, Kirkuk - Departures: 2026-11-05 to 2026-11-10 (7 spots left); 2027-02-18 to 2027-02-23 (9 spots left); 2027-04-22 to 2027-04-27 (10 spots left) **Summary:** Explore the rich heritage of northern Iraq. Explore the rich heritage of northern Iraq, from the reconstructed Al-Nuri Mosque in Mosul to the magnificent Parthian ruins of Hatra and the Assyrian capitals of Nineveh and Nimrud. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Mosul: Visit the reconstructed Al-Nuri Mosque. - Day 2 - Nineveh & Nimrud: Explore the ancient Assyrian capitals. - Day 3 - Hatra: Visit the magnificent ruins of Hatra. - Day 4 - Kirkuk & Baba Gurgur: Explore the multicultural city of Kirkuk. - Day 5 - Mar Mattai Monastery: Visit the ancient Mar Mattai Monastery. - Day 6 - Departure: Transfer to Erbil International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations; Private transportation; English-speaking guide; All entrance fees; Breakfast and dinner daily; Airport transfers **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijournys.com/tours/northern-odyssey ### Southern Adventure - Price: $1950 per person · Duration: 8 Days / 7 Nights · Difficulty: Moderate · Region: Southern Iraq - Cities: Baghdad, Karbala, Najaf, Nasiriyah, Basra - Departures: 2026-11-20 to 2026-11-27 (10 spots left); 2027-01-14 to 2027-01-21 (8 spots left); 2027-03-18 to 2027-03-25 (10 spots left) **Summary:** Journey through the cultural and spiritual heart of southern Iraq. Journey through the cultural and spiritual heart of southern Iraq, from the holy shrines of Karbala and Najaf to the ancient city of Ur and the tranquil waters of the Mesopotamian Marshes. **Itinerary:** - Day 1 - Arrival in Baghdad: Evening stroll along the Tigris. - Day 2 - Baghdad to Karbala: Visit the holy shrines of Karbala. - Day 3 - Najaf: Visit the Imam Ali Shrine. - Day 4 - Najaf to Nasiriyah: Visit Ur and the Mesopotamian Marshes. - Day 5 - Nasiriyah & The Marshes: Full day in the marshes. - Day 6 - Basra: Explore Basra: Shatt al-Arab and date palm forests. - Day 7 - Basra to Baghdad: Scenic drive back. Farewell dinner. - Day 8 - Departure: Transfer to Baghdad International Airport. **Included:** All accommodations; Private transportation; English-speaking guide; All entrance fees; Breakfast and dinner daily; Airport transfers; Marsh boat rides **Not included:** International flights; Travel insurance; Visa fees; Lunches; Personal expenses; Tips - Full page: https://iraqijournys.com/tours/southern-adventure ## Destination guides ### The Mesopotamian Marshes - The Garden of Eden A labyrinth of reeds and shimmering waterways where the Tigris and Euphrates meet - the legendary Garden of Eden. Home of the Marsh Arabs and the Ma'dan, who still build their mudhif reed houses and pole their mashoof canoes as their ancestors did five thousand years ago. UNESCO World Heritage since 2016. - Region: Dhi Qar & Basra, Southern Iraq - People: The Ma'dan - Marsh Arabs - Home: Mudhif reed houses - UNESCO: World Heritage since 2016 **Photo gallery:** The Garden of Eden - panorama of the marshes · Reed houses of Chibayish · The marshes from above, Dhi Qar · A Ma'dan village on the water · Date palm groves of the Shatt al-Arab · Shatt al-Arab, Basra · The marshes of Iraq - the waters that cradle civilization · The Mesopotamian Marshes at night · A buffalo herder waves from his dwelling near Suq al-Shuyukh · A Marsh Arab poling a mashoof through the reeds - Full guide: https://iraqijournys.com/landmarks/mesopotamian-marshes ### Amedi - The Citadel on the Mesa Founded before 3000 BC, Amedi has watched over the road between Mesopotamia and the mountains for five thousand years. Perched 3,900 feet above the plains of Duhok on a single flat-topped mesa, it was the seat of the Bahdinan emirate, home to the Great Mosque, a synagogue and a tomb attributed to Ezekiel - conquered by Assyrians, Medes, Parthians and Romans, and never abandoned. - Founded: Before 3000 BC - Elevation: 3,900 ft above the plain - Seat of: The Bahdinan Emirate - Region: Duhok, Iraqi Kurdistan **Photo gallery:** Bird's eye view of Amedi on its mesa · The Badinan Gate · The Badinan Gate, entrance to the Citadel · Minaret of the Great Mosque of Amedi · Amedi Gate, 1994 · Amedi from the Badinan Gate - Full guide: https://iraqijournys.com/landmarks/amedi ### Hatra - The Sun Temple City A walled city of the Parthian era that rose from the desert at the crossroads of the Roman and Persian worlds. Hatra's great circular city, ringed by double walls, sheltered the Temple of the Sun and the shrines of its many gods. It survived two Roman sieges, was sacked with the fall of the empire, and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985. After its deliberate destruction in 2015, its walls are slowly rising again - a monument to endurance. - Founded: 3rd century BC - Builders: The Parthian Empire - UNESCO: World Heritage since 1985 - Region: Nineveh Plains, Northern Iraq **Photo gallery:** The great Temple of the Sun at Hatra · The carved stone of the northern cities · Walls that outlived empires · The desert plains around Hatra · The northern route, from Erbil to Hatra · The waterways of northern Iraq - Full guide: https://iraqijournys.com/landmarks/hatra ### Erbil Citadel - The Oldest Inhabited City on Earth Perched on a 30-metre mound at the heart of Erbil, the Citadel has been continuously inhabited for over 6,000 years - a living testament to the enduring spirit of Mesopotamia, and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2014. - Age: 6,000+ years inhabited - Mound: 30 metres above Erbil - UNESCO: World Heritage since 2014 - Region: Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan **Photo gallery:** The Erbil Citadel at day · The Citadel at dusk · The castle in the heart of Hawler · Erbil Citadel, 2024 · Old houses around the Citadel · The archaeological walls of the Citadel - Full guide: https://iraqijournys.com/landmarks/erbil-citadel ## Traveler FAQ ### [Safety & Travel] Is Iraq safe for tourists? Yes. Iraq is safe for travelers who go with a trusted local guide. The security situation has improved dramatically in recent years. I personally ensure all routes are safe, travel with vetted drivers, and maintain constant communication with local authorities. My travelers consistently tell me they felt safer in Iraq than they expected. Like any country, there are areas to avoid and common-sense precautions to take, and thats exactly why traveling with a local guide is invaluable. ### [Safety & Travel] Is it safe for solo travelers? Absolutely. Many of my travelers are solo, including women traveling alone. I provide 24/7 support and ensure you are always accompanied during the tour. Solo travel in Iraq with a guide is not only safe but incredibly rewarding. ### [Safety & Travel] What about health concerns? No special vaccinations are required for Iraq, but we recommend being up to date on routine vaccines. Bottled water is provided throughout. I also carry a first-aid kit on all tours. ### [Visas & Documentation] Do I need a visa to visit Iraq? Most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival at Iraqi airports (Baghdad, Erbil, Basra, Najaf). Citizens of the US, UK, Canada, Australia, EU countries, and many others are eligible. I can also help arrange an e-visa before your trip. Always check the latest requirements based on your nationality. ### [Visas & Documentation] How do I get a visa? For most travelers, the easiest option is visa on arrival at the airport, it takes about 15-30 minutes and costs around $75 USD. I provide detailed guidance on the process and documents needed. ### [Visas & Documentation] Can I travel to Iraqi Kurdistan with the same visa? Yes. The Iraqi visa allows you to visit both the federal Iraq (south) and the Kurdistan Region (north). No separate permit is needed for travelers on a standard tourist visa. ### [Booking & Expeditions] How do I book an expedition? You can book directly through our website by filling out the booking form. Alternatively, you can reach out via WhatsApp or email. I will confirm availability within 24 hours and send you a detailed itinerary and payment instructions. ### [Booking & Expeditions] What is the payment process? A 30% deposit is required to confirm your booking, with the remaining 70% due 30 days before the tour start date. Payments can be made via bank transfer, Wise, or Western Union. I do not currently process credit cards directly, but alternative arrangements can be made. ### [Booking & Expeditions] What is your cancellation policy? Free cancellation up to 60 days before the tour (full refund). 50% refund between 30-60 days. No refund within 30 days, but I will work with you to reschedule if possible. ### [Booking & Expeditions] Can I customize a tour? Absolutely. Every tour can be tailored to your interests, schedule, and pace. Use the "Design Your Trip" page to tell me what you are looking for, and I will create a custom itinerary. ### [Travel Logistics] What should I pack? Comfortable walking shoes, modest clothing (long pants, covered shoulders for religious sites), a scarf, sunscreen, a reusable water bottle, and a camera. I provide a detailed packing list upon booking. ### [Travel Logistics] What is the food like? Iraqi cuisine is among the best in the Middle East. Expect grilled meats (kebabs, tikka), rice dishes (masgouf, the national dish), fresh vegetables, flatbreads, and sweet tea. Vegetarian options are readily available. ### [Travel Logistics] What language is spoken? Arabic and Kurdish are the official languages. English is widely understood in tourist areas. Ali is fluent in Arabic, Kurdish, and English. ### [Travel Logistics] What currency should I bring? The Iraqi Dinar (IQD) is the local currency. US Dollars are widely accepted. ATMs are available in major cities. I recommend bringing a mix of USD and IQD for smaller purchases. ### [Connectivity & Internet] Is there internet and mobile coverage in Iraq? Yes, mobile coverage is excellent in all major cities (Baghdad, Erbil, Basra, Najaf) and most towns. 4G/LTE is widely available through local SIM cards (Zain, Asiacell, Korek). I can help you get a local SIM on arrival, a data package costs around $10-15 for 10-20GB. WiFi is available in all hotels we use. In remote areas like the Marshes or deep mountain valleys, coverage can be limited or unavailable, which adds to the experience of disconnecting and immersing yourself in the landscape. ### [Connectivity & Internet] Will I have access to WiFi at accommodations? All hotels and lodges we book have WiFi. Speeds vary by location, city hotels offer fast connections, while mountain lodges and marsh guesthouses may have slower satellite-based internet. I recommend downloading maps and important documents before your trip as a backup. ### [Photography & Media] Can I take photos? Yes, photography is encouraged at most sites. However, avoid photographing military personnel, checkpoints, and government buildings. I will guide you on what is appropriate. ### [Photography & Media] Can I fly my drone? Drone flying is restricted in Iraq and requires special permits. I do not recommend bringing a drone. If you need aerial footage for professional purposes, please discuss with me in advance. ### [About the Brand] What is Iraqi Journeys with Ali? Iraqi Journeys with Ali is a private tour operator founded in 2016 by Ali Jasim, a local guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad. We lead small, private expeditions across Iraq - ancient Mesopotamia, the Marshes of Eden and Iraqi Kurdistan - with more than 70 tours and 1,500+ travelers from 20+ countries to date. Every tour is led personally by Ali and booked directly through this website. ### [About the Brand] Who is Ali Jasim? Ali Jasim is an Iraqi guide born in Najaf and based in Baghdad, and the founder of Iraqi Journeys with Ali. He has guided travelers through Iraq since 2016, speaks English, Arabic and Kurdish, and personally leads every expedition. His full story is on the About page. ### [About the Brand] Are you affiliated with any other tour service that uses a similar name? No. Iraqi Journeys with Ali is an independent company founded in 2016 by Ali Jasim and based in Baghdad. We are not affiliated with any other tour service that uses a similar name. To be sure you are booking with us, use this website only - our expeditions, departures and prices are listed on the Expeditions page. - All FAQs: https://iraqijournys.com/faq ## Journal (travel stories and guides) ### Samarra: The Spiral That Points to the Sky - By Ali Jasim, 2026-08-02 · Tags: Samarra, Abbasid, Central Iraq Nine coils of brick rising fifty-two metres over the Tigris - climbing the Malwiya, and what the Abbasid age still has to say to a traveller today. The Spiral That Points to the Sky Nothing prepares you for the Malwiya. From the flat banks of the Tigris at Samarra, a spiral of brick rises fifty-two metres into the air - a ramp that coils around itself nine times, built in the ninth century for the Abbasid caliph al-Mutawakkil. Climb its seven hundred steps, and the whole of the Mesopotamian plain unfolds below: the great mosque at your feet, the river bending to the south, and Baghdad a whisper on the horizon. Why It Matters The Malwiya is a reminder of what the Abbasid age actually was. While Europe slept through its early-medieval winters, Samarra was the largest city on earth, and the House of Wisdom in Baghdad was translating the world's knowledge into Arabic. The minaret is not a relic of that age. It is its exclamation mark. Beside the minaret, the ruins of the Great Mosque of Samarra still sprawl across seventeen hectares - one of the largest mosques ever built. For a traveller, the visit is an hour in the presence of scale. "The spiral is said to have been inspired by a ziggurat, or perhaps by a tower built by the wind itself." - an old guide's story, Samarra On the Practical Side Getting there: Samarra is a comfortable day trip from Baghdad - about ninety minutes by private car on the modern road. - Best time: late afternoon, when the brick turns rose in the setting sun. - Combining it: the Central Iraq leg of the Mesopotamia Odyssey pairs Samarra with Ctesiphon's arch in a single day. - - Full story: https://iraqijournys.com/blog/samarra-the-spiral-minaret ### Hatra: The City That Rome Never Took - By Ali Jasim, 2026-07-26 · Tags: Hatra, History, Nineveh Plains Twice the legions besieged it, twice they marched away with nothing. Walking the great iwans of the sun temple city - and the story of the goddess Shahiro. The City That Rome Never Took Out in the desert of the Nineveh Plains, forty minutes from the modern road, the sun temple city of Hatra rises from the sand. Twice the Roman legions besieged it. Twice they marched away with nothing. For three centuries this circular city of the Parthian world stood as the frontier between two empires - and it remains the best-preserved fortified city of antiquity anywhere in the region. Walking through the Great Iwans - the colossal arched halls that still stand to their full height - you feel the scale of the place. These are not ruins in the usual sense. They are architecture that has simply outlived its builders. Hatra and the Goddess Shahiro The old temples of Hatra honoured Shahiro, the Lady of the First Light - the dawn that breaks over the northern plains. Her image, painted in gold and lapis, kept watch over the city's thresholds. The guide's grandmother told him the old story: even in the desert, the light always returns. Hatra is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the work of preservation is ongoing. Visiting is not only safe - it is a way of standing with that work. Practical Notes Access: Hatra is a full-day excursion from Mosul or Erbil, and is included in the Northern Odyssey tour. - Best light: the late afternoon, when the ochre stone glows. - Carry: water, a hat, and a sense of scale. You will need the third the most. - - Full story: https://iraqijournys.com/blog/hatra-the-city-that-rome-never-took ### A Dawn in the Mesopotamian Marshes - By Ali Jasim, 2026-07-12 · Tags: Marshes, Southern Iraq, Culture Gliding through the reed channels of Chibayish as the first light of morning turns the water to gold - a glimpse of the Iraq that guidebooks cannot prepare you for. Before Dawn on the Water The mashoof glides without a sound. Ahead of us, the reeds of the Mesopotamian Marshes rise higher than a man on horseback, and the first light of morning turns the channels to hammered gold. This is the Iraq that guidebooks cannot prepare you for. The Marsh Arabs - the Ma'dan - have built their mudhif reed houses here for five thousand years, exactly as their ancestors did. To sit inside one, under its vaulted arch of bundled qasab reeds, with tea being poured over cardamom, is to understand that civilization did not merely begin here. It still lives here. The Rhythm of Marsh Life A day in the marshes unfolds slowly, and that is the point. Water buffalo wade past the house at dawn. Fishermen repair their nets on the platforms. Children row to school in canoes. By late afternoon the light turns amber, and the water becomes a mirror of the sky. "We did not come to the marshes to see a place. We came to see how people live in a place that time forgot to ruin." - a traveler, Chibayish When to Go October to April is the sweet season - mild days, cool nights, and the water high enough to reach the deepest channels. The expeditions from our Mesopotamian Marshes itinerary time the paddles for dawn and dusk, when the birds are loudest and the light is softest. The Ziggurat, an Hour Away Forty minutes from the marsh village lies the great Ziggurat of Ur - the stairway to heaven built by Ur-Nammu around 2100 BCE, and the traditional birthplace of Abraham. It rises out of the desert like a mountain made by hand. Stand at its base at sunset, and the seven thousand years between you and the Sumerians collapse to nothing. - Full story: https://iraqijournys.com/blog/a-dawn-in-the-mesopotamian-marshes ## Facts about traveling to Iraq - Iraq is safe for travelers who go with a trusted local guide; routes are vetted and drivers are known personally. - No special vaccinations are required, but being up to date on routine vaccines is recommended. - Most nationalities can get a visa on arrival (~15-30 minutes, around $75 USD) at Baghdad, Erbil, Basra and Najaf. - The Iraqi visa covers both federal Iraq and the Kurdistan Region - no separate permit is needed. - The Iraqi Dinar (IQD) is the local currency; US Dollars are widely accepted; ATMs exist in major cities. - 4G/LTE is excellent in cities (Zain, Asiacell, Korek); remote areas like the Marshes may have limited coverage. - Photography is welcome at most sites; avoid photographing military personnel, checkpoints and government buildings. - Drone flying is restricted and requires special permits - Ali advises not bringing a drone. - Cancellation: free up to 60 days before departure, 50% refund 30-60 days out, no refund within 30 days (rescheduling possible). - Iraqi Journeys with Ali is an independent company, not affiliated with any other tour service using a similar name.